Today was unlike any other. We departed Hoonah at zero dark thirty (0530) and was prepared for a slow slogging crossing of Icy Strait to Glacier Bay. Instead, we jetted across with favorable currents, wind, and swells, so we were safely anchored in bartlett Cove in Glacier Bay by 0945.
As we zoomed past Point Adolphus at 9.9kts we were treated to Humpback whales everywhere. In nearly all directions, we could see spouts, backs/fins, and flukes. For whatever reason, the pictures don't do these magnificent creatures justice - at least not from my camera. I can assure you that in the picture, left, there are lots of humpback whales. Really.
Every private boater who enters Glacier Bay must attend a 3-hr orientation to the National Park, history, and rules. We had a wonderful instructor who sped through the material as Karen & I were the only students in the noon class.
This made it possible to have lunch in the National Park Lodge. And the Lodge food was exactly like Lodge food everywhere. Swallowable at best.
Karen & I poured over the maps and charts plotting out our Glacier Bay adventure. But I get ahead of myself...
Did you know that 250 years ago in the early 1700's, this bay was buried nearly a mile deep in glacial ice? Yup, 5,000' of ice was above the current sea level here. I can't even imagine. No wonder the Tlingit had to leave the area and find warmer greener pastures!
Back to the boat all educated and excited we head north towards Tarr Inlet, the home of the Margerie and Grand Pacific Glaciers (These are the ones most cruise ships visit). This park is the largest of our national parks at just over 57,000 square miles. It is a two-day trip for us to get to these tidewater glaciers.
On our trip north, we spotted a lot of whales, but even more sea otters. The population was reportedly near zero a decade ago and now numbers about a hundred. We saw every one of them and then some. Sea otters were out in force. This one (in the picture) we passed only 10 yards from the boat, maybe less... I think he was number 102...
We stopped for the night in Blue Mouse Cove. Both Karen & I misread the chart and thought this was Blue Moose Cove. We were laughing at the image of a bull moose wading through these frigid waters. Not the same mental image with a mouse...
Anyway, we anchored in about 55' of water at high tide (+14'), put out 165' of chain with our single bridle as we are not expecting any meaningful wind tonight. If we were expecting winds above 20kts, I'd put out our double bridle setup. The single bridle I rig over the bow roller, it's easy and simple to deploy. The double bridle setup is a chain hook and two pendants that lead to for forward cleats on each site of the boat. This setup reduces swing, adds extra strength, and a kellett to act as a spring for big surges, but it is a real PITA to setup. Anyway, not needed, all good.
As we were preparing dinner, we were treated to a humpback whale (first picture tot he left) and Dahl's porpoise (second picture to the left) only 50 yards or so away from the boat. The whale stayed around for 45 minutes before disappearing. Awesome!
Tonight's dinner was accompanied by a spectacular 2007 Miner Stagecoach Cab Sauv. It showed perfectly and was a true well-aged example of a powerhouse Napa Cab. Yumm!!!
Here's our anticipated route in Glacier Bay, today in blue and tomorrow in yellow.
Tomorrow, we are off to see glaciers. Stay tuned!
You had a whale just hanging out with you for dinner????? Ugh that’s so cool!
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